Sunday, May 10, 2009

Amalfi

Off to Pompeii – it was interesting but a little disappointing, not at all like we had imagined. There were lots of school students and other tourists. We ended up in Naples on the way back, missing the turn to Sorrento and Amalfi. Naples is just a big city, bit dirty so we decided not to linger but to hit the coast and drive back to Maiori via Sorrento and Amalfi. What a drive! The coast was magnificent but the roads are so narrow, Ken did well not to take out another car. Sorrento was the pick of the towns on the coast but Maiori was good for a base as it was much easier to get around and was pretty with some nice restaurants. Well done Amalfi-would not recommend it-not a patch on Aussie beaches (black sand) and so hard to get around.

Friday, May 8, 2009

Greece to Italy

Another long drive (5 hours) to Igoumenitsa to catch the overnight ferry to Italy. Igoumenitsa was interesting and it was ncie to be back in a Greek town. The ferry ride was a bit uncomfortable but tolerable. Next mronign we set off for the other side of Italy and the Amalfi coast. The road was very good and took about 5 hours. We drove to Maiori and found our apartment-up 140 steps straight up from the road-yes the coastline is just like the movies but the sand on the beaches is grey. Maiori is a pretty coastal town but it was time to have a rest day and cath up on the washing (the worst part of travelling)

Bitola

Igor’s relatives made us very welcome and we had wood fired pork and lamb-a feast. W also went up the mountain to a national park and explored the Heraclea ruins. A nice day but very cold and rainy. This is the end of our time with Kate and Igor and we set off with Ken and Gayle for Italy tomorrow. Macedonia was interesting but holds little interest for the average tourist however we were privileged to meet Igor’s relatives who were warm, loving, fun people.

Skopje

Kate, Robert and I went to met Gayle and Ken in Skopje. We got lost finding the hotel but a Serbian man hopped in the car (Kate and I thought he might have been leading us down an alley to rob and rape us but we should be more trusting of our fellow man J). The Serbian lead us to the hotel and we had a beer to celebrate our arrival and meeting Ken and Gayle. Never stay at the Hotel Ani if you visit Skopje-it’s the worst hotel I have ever stayed in-dirty and stinking of smoke.
The Lonely Planet says of Skopje:
1. Walk across the ancient Stone Bridge
2. Look at the shopping bazaar in the old Turkish town
3. Leave
The Stone Bridge was covered with graffiti and FILTHY with rubbish, smelled like urine and was infested with Gypsies begging – real in-your-face pushy beggars who pulled at your clothes and followed you.It’s hard to be objective but the Gypsies and the little kids that they hold in their arms when begging are very dirty. The Turkish bazaar was interesting and we did some shopping, had a nice meal and left to go back to Bitola to meet Igor’s other Aunty, Uncle and cousins.

Bitola

It was off to Bitola to stay with Igor’s uncle on his farm at the village that Rada (Igor’s mother) grew up. Uncle and his family were very welcoming and gracious. Macedonia is a very poor country with very little industry. The average person earns about 200 euro per month and there is 50% unemployment. Bitola is a bit grimy, littered streets and run down overall, but with some nice new shops and restaurants. Food etc about half Wollongong prices but accommodation relatively dear. There was a well-preserved old Turkish sector in the town.

Ohrid

The morning found us much refreshed and we drove to Ohrid on good roads. Ohrid is on the edge of the second biggest lake in Europe (according to Uncle Dennis). We stayed in a unit owned by a friend of Kate and Igor’s and it turned out that Robert knew Uncle Dennis (uncle of their friend who now lives in Ohrid but previously lived in Kanahooka). The unit was lovely and close to the lake. The lakeside was beautiful with many restaurants and shops along the edge of the water. After doing about 6 loads of washing we had a lovely dinner in a nice restaurant with Dennis and his new wife Mila. More washing and lunch with Dennis and Mila. Mila cooked cabbage rolls and other Macedonian delicacies and then we walked through the town. Next day we went for a boat ride across the lake, walked to the fortress and then to an old church. The views were spectacular. We also went for a drive to the springs that feed into the lake and another very old church. Ohrid is an interesting city and we had a chance to have a rest!

Dubrovnik to Skopje

We choose to drive to Macedonia via Sarajevo, Montenegro, Serbia, and Kosovo rather than go though Albania. We were aiming for Ohrid. It took us 14 hours and we have to go to Skopje because we were advised in Montenegro that this was the best choice and the quickest route. The roads were terrible and while we were able to get through the border crossings without any incidents there were many of them and this slowed us down. The weather was also difficult very wet, cold and overcast. Given the tediousness of the trip we did see some spectacular scenery but I would not suggest to anyone to follow our route!! We reached Skopje about 9pm and found a hotel and had some dinner.